Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life

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ISBN(EAN) 9781472151414
Издатель Corsair
(сайт издательства)
Автор Finnegan William
Язык Английский
Формат Мягкая обложка
Страницы 512
Год издания 2016
Страна происхождения Соединенное Королевство
Рейтинг 4.6
Вес (грамм) 400
Размер (мм) 217(д) х 139(ш) х 37(в)
 

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016.

WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE.

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. 

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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